25 December 2009

LG Washer LE Error

UPDATE:  I've had quite a few hits on this posting and received lots of great comments - thanks very much.

This post explains how to replace the hall sensor on your LG washer.  Before you decide that you have to replace your hall sensor, please try unplugging your washer for 5-10 minutes and see if it will reset all on its own.

Also, even after replacing the sensor, sometimes these washers will display "LE" a week or month later and they just need a time-out (unplugged).  Good luck!

I've also had a few questions on what the heck is a hall sensor. Here's a whitepaper with a good description, design notes and ideas on what else you can do with these things.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

We had a really nice Maytag washer and dryer set. They were a billion years old (maybe 15 actually) but ran strong and had zero problems. Spring 2007 we decided to remodel our laundry room and of course we had to have the super duper LG WM2075CW 27" Front-Load Washer with 3.72 cu. ft. Capacity, 7 Cycles, 6 Options, SenseClean and 8 Hours Delay Wash.

About $800 delivered. Nothing but the best for my socks and undies (boxers btw).

Everything has been great except the week before Christmas 2009, Mr LG wouldn't work. It would grunt and click and then put "LE" on the display. A quick Google yields lots and lots and lots of hits with the Load Error (LE).

A number of things can cause an LE but the most common is a malfunctioning Hall Sensor. Seems that LG washers are pieces of crap and this is a well known problem. LG has extended the warranty on the part to 7 years but they won't ship the in-warranty part to consumers. They'll only ship to a certified service company. After several phone calls to LG and way too many minutes on hold, I finally just ordered the damn thing from MCM Electronics, part number 6501KW2002A for $18. Plus tax and shipping, at my door for $29.75.

Actually the LG washer and dryer have been great, I'm just very ticked that LG has a known problem but won't do a recall to fix the part with a more reliable piece. And even more ticked that they won't ship me an in-warranty part so I can do it myself. So for now on, I will refer to the washer as a piece of crap and LG as a seller of crap. My next washer will be a Bosch.


The Google hit that explained the error, the part number and how to replace is FixYa. Their how-to was a little brief and a picture is worth a thousand so I thought I would help out the next sucker that also has a piece of crap that needs to be fixed.

Read thru that FixYa article and make a decision if your problem is also the Hall Sensor. If so, follow along.

This is a pretty simple fix. If you can change a sparkplug than you can easily do this one. (I compared this to a sparkplug change cause you'll get a little dirty, gotta pull some cables, and work a socket wrench).

You'll need a phillips head screw driver, 17mm and 10mm sockets or wrenches.

A quick note:  Even though the pictures are somehow dated 1/7/2006, they were actually taken in December 2009.  Someone reset my camera date and I didn't notice until pics were all taken.

Ok, First step, UNPLUG the washer. And carefully move the washer so that you can access the back panel. If your washer and dryer are stacked, please be careful and make sure there is nothing on top that will fall and hit you in the head. Ask someone to help you, don't blame me if you hurt your self moving the thing. Be careful!
  • Remove the 4 phillips head screws on the back panel
  • With a 17mm socket, remove the bolt that holds on the motor rotor. Turn the bolt to the left (counter clockwise) to remove. The drum will probably turn as you're trying to get the bolt loose so with your free hand, grab the rotor around 10 o'clock and hold tight while you turn the bolt. Be patient and it'll come right out.
  • Next,you need to pull the motor rotor off to expose the stator. This will be a little tough because of the magnets and a tight fit. Use both hands on opposite sides and gently tug one side, then the other, then both. Try your hands at 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock. Then switch to 5 and 11. Be patient and tug gently. Watch the white center and you'll see it slowly pull away from the shaft.


  • Set the rotor to the side and remove the 10mm bolts holding the stator on. I wasn't sure what to expect when I started removing it and I wanted to make sure I put it on right side up so I made pencil marks to line things back up. These really aren't needed cause it'll be obvious as to which side is up.
  • When you remove the 6th bolt, use your free hand to hold on to the stator cause it will fall right off. There are two connectors at the bottom, one the goes to the motor windings, the other to the hall sensor that we're replacing. If you don't hold onto the stator, you might damage the wires or connectors. Go slow on the last bolt and hang on.
  • Here's what those connector look like from the bottom side. I didn't have any luck trying to get them free from the bottom though. I was kinda squeezed in between the wall and washer so I didn't have much room to wiggle. I let the stator lean towards me like the picture above and then gently pulled both connectors free. Don't go Rambo on these connectors, you don't need to replace extra stuff. Breathe deep and squeeze the little tabs, they'll come free.
  • Almost there. That shiny looking thing on the bottom right of the stator ring is the hall sensor. It's held on with 3 clips on the back side, 1 clip on the front. Simple pry up the 1 clip and it will pop free.
  • The new sensor snaps back on just like you'd expect. Hook up the 3 clips first and then snap it on to the 1 clip side.
  • I don't have pictures of these next steps cause it's just the opposite of the above. Just look at the pictures in the reverse order and it'll all go right back together.
  • Hook up the two connectors. Make sure they click all the way back on.
  • Line the stator back up with the bolt holes and screw the bolts back in with a 10mm socket. Tighten them firm but don't over do it.
  • Push the rotor back onto the shaft. Because of the magnets and the shaft grooves, it will feel like it's not going. It will, line it up and apply pressure at the edges.
  • Tighten the big bolt with a 17mm socket. As it tightens, the drum will start to rotate. Grab the edge with your free hand and tighten firmly.
  • Put the back panel back onand tighten down the 4 phillips head screws.
  • Plug the washer back in and carefully push the washer back into place.
  • Test.
  • Your piece of crap washer is fixed.
Total time was 38 minutes. If I didn't stop and take pictures, easily under 30 minutes.

What do you think? Leave a comment, buy me a beer!



98 comments:

__ew__ said...

Nice work. Your explanations are great, makes me want to take my washer apart just for the fun of it. Ok, not really, but I do enjoy reading your blog posts.
Thanks!

Nick said...

I just did this whole job in 23mins and includes yacking to my sidekick! Really appreciate the effort you made in the directions and the great photos!

I owe you a beer..... or two!

Thanks again,

Nick
Victoria, BC
Canada

lizard43 said...

thanks nick. glad i could help!

lizard43 said...

hey __ew__ -
funny that you say that. about 30 years ago, i did take old washing machine apart just to see what made it work (and the fun of it). i never could get the darn thing back together and working right though! thanks for reading the blog!

Carrin Family said...

Thanks a ton! I have a Maytag Bravo that was messing up. Someone said to replace the Rotor Position Sensor. I didn't have a clue what that was or where to find it. Thanks to your great blog I was able to fix my machine.
Thanks! Tara

Dan said...

Lizard43 Thanks for the LE error repair manual. I fixed the LG without any rise in blood pressure. Shot for the Hall sensor rather than the stator. Especially thanks for the mm sizing info. As for the 17mm bolt; I just started rotating the flex handle/breaker bar clockwise and then snapped quickly opposite and it came loose with no problem. To tighten I placed both stocking feet up on the rotor and a couple of quick motions on the bar. With the blue lock tight I think it is good and tight.

If I had it to do over again I would connect the Hall last. The other connecter was tight to get off and is short coupled. My wife wanted to give her thanks too.

As for LG I have a request in to LG "Resolutions".
resolutions@lge.com
We will see what happens there.

Damir said...

Thank you so much.Before this famous hall sensor I have replaced main mother board,assembly filter and the ball sensor just because stupid,stupid,stupid LE error.Spent a lot of time and $$ for nothing.I could not find the problem.Oh boy,I was pissed and when I was just about to push the washer down the stairs, I read your blog and...TA-DA!
Ya da Man!!!
Greetings from So.California

PJ said...

Oh man. Thanks so much for this post! I first called LG. Because we bought the washer second hand the warranty doesn't transfer. They did give me a procedure to try to clear the code but it didn't work. So I ordered the part and prayed. The pics were perfect. 2 tips:
1. I wedged a screwdriver between the 'fins' on the cover and a hard mounting point on the stator to break the bolt.
2. I only disconnected the hall sensor. The other sensor was giving me trouble and I realized I didn't need to take it off. I pulled the hall sensor off the stator. Replaced the stator with one bolt to hold it while I swapped out hall sensors on the connector.

Anonymous said...

Single mom here, so it took me a lot longer. I saw all the posts on the fix-it sites and figured I could do this. First - to all the single moms out there..BORROW a socket/rachet set. I own the typical things, electric screwdriver and drill and this wasn't something I had laying around. Second - After I got the first bolt off, I was stuck on step two. All the other posting did not explain how to pull the hubcap cover looking thing off. I stumbled on this site and it was a life saver. Put your hands exactly as he says and keep gently pulling. Eventually the Gods shine upon you, the magnets give and it starts to move. Third - read ahead..when you take that last bolt off that is holding everything on, it kind of pops off and it's a little heavy. I stuck it back on there, and went and go my stool to hold it while I did the hand work. Forth- I fiddled with the first clip and had problems getting it to come all the way off. So I just went to work on the scanner piece and unclipped it. go in with your two fingers and pull up..it will just pull off. Running my first bleach load to clean the sucker out and then heading off to buy the correct detergent. Thanks to some other sites, I know have a clean filter, can drain water from the drum, and I have a clean inside seal. It's running water in the front of the window and it hasn't done that in a few years. Thanks to everyone for all the tips. Gotta love the internet!

Anonymous said...

Fantastic write up! I followed your instructions to the tee and it worked! (until the next day) :( But the instructions worked perfectly for the replacement. Now I just have to figure out what else is wrong. I guess I'll be pulling it back apart tonight to see why it still is flashing LE... Stupid LG Washer!!!

Anonymous said...

Perfect fix, thanks for the notes!

Anonymous said...

I got the LE error and tried various other simple fixes, but they didn't work. The washer would not spin clockwise. Found the part on ebay and, 5 days later for $23, fixed it myself. The pics really helped.

The other connector was difficult to unplug so I left it on. Removed all stator screws but the top one and left that very loose so I could replace the hall sensor from below.

Thanks!

Anonymous said...

Thanks so much for your detailed instruction. I printed out the directions and am happily washing clothes again!

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the tips. What is the part number for the LG TROMME WM1814CW Hall sensor?
Is it sold in Toronto?

lizard43 said...

Hi Anon -
I don't have a WM1814CW so can't say for sure but from this post it appears that the 6501KW2002A sensor I used will fit.

Please check for yourself first though, read this and see if you agree:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t377030-need_sensor_assembly_6501kw2002a

You can order 6501KW2002A from MCM online:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/6501KW2002A

good luck!

Anonymous said...

Thank you so much. I'm a single mom, trying to fix this crappy washing machine on my own and I stumbled upon your pictures and you totally saved me. Even right down to ordering the part. I haven't put it back together again, but I am confident it will go well. Thanks.

Anonymous said...

I have been following this blog since Jan 2010 and iI really enjoy reading the positive responses.

Any how it is sorta like "Pay it Forward", sometimes you just don't know what comes out of giving. Any how very cool Lizard43

lizard43 said...

Thanks for all the great feedback! The driving reason for my blog is to share some of my experiences so that I can help out others. I'm glad that this posting has worked out for some of you! ;-)

Prashant said...

Thanks for your blog !!
It helped me save on costly repairs. I did exactly as you have mentioned and it worked like a charm. (at least till now).

I ordered the part from MCM electronics and got it for 18.99 + 8.50 (S & H) = ~$29

The main bolt holding the rotor to the stator took slightly longer than mentioned here. Could be bcos I did not have the right tools. I spoke to a friend who had a 17 mm and with his help (holding the drum from turning) and using a hammer a couple of times, I was able to loosen the bolt. After that everything else was easy. Be careful of the last step before removing the stator .... it is pretty heavy and just letting it dangle when removing the last bolt can cause the 2 connectors to snap.

All in all, a satisfying experience. Thanks a ton !!

Lee in Texas said...

We have the Wonderful "LE" as everyone else here...My wife found the site & your Info.Ordered the part, 29.00 plus shipping 18.00, My Wife wants this thing fixed that's why the 18.00 for shipping,it'll be here tomorrow (14Jul)....She's (Wife) said if that don't fix the !@#$%^$#@&!*#&&!(!, She's going to Buy a Bosch/Siemens....Post More after the install. Thanks for the Info & Help !!!

Chinger said...

Thank you so so much!!!
With your clear directions, we replaced the haul sensor ourselves and our LG washer is running normal again. We only spent under $30 for the part (shipping included). We are on a tight budget these days and thank you so much for helping us save so much money and time.
We really can't say thank you enough.

phil said...

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! My washer stopped working last night and in researching the problemI found your blog and read the various replies to your post and thought maybe I, too, could repair it myself. I did pay more ($35) for the part, but I was able to buy it locally today. The salesman tried to scare me into using their technician by telling me that they would not come out and finish the repair should I have been unsucessful. He estimated they could come out for about $150 (part and labor). Feeling confident, having read your explanations and viewing your photos, I declined his offer and came home to attempt it myself. It was a breeze once I got the initial bolt off - that sucker was on their tight...
Now in addition to the two single mothers who followed your instructions sucessfully you can now add one homosexual. I only mention this should someone else view this post and have any doubts as to whether they could do it themself.
Thank you again for taking the time to document and post these instructions!

Arra said...

Thank you for the illustrations.
My machine stopped working over the weekend - I came across your site and the comments and thought I would try the same and it worked !
I have a WM1814 model and the part number for the Hall Sensor Assy is 6501KW2001A I got this via LG Canada CAD$30 and some change including shipping. LG Canada sends this via AP Wagner (http://www.apwagner.ca/). If you need to get this locally in Toronto you can visit there website and order parts or visit them in Brampton/Mississauga locations.

Once again thank you for the post.

Theresa said...

Thank you, thank you, thank you! I was able to make this repair myself! $30 for the part, $0 for my time - priceless! Couldn't have done it without you.

hirisc said...

THANK YOU

We have a 5 year old LG 2277 that gave us the dreaded 'LE'. Tried to unplug/re-plug the unit in, spun the inside drum, press 'play' and the other customary remedy's. Nada.

Ran across your blog and thought I'd rather buy the part myself and attempt to fix (seemed easy enough) than shell out $300 to the local guy (and wait 5 days).

Ordered the 6501KW2002A sensor from DeyDistribution.com, picked it up locally and following your pictures, had the sensor swapped out in under 30 minutes. Viola!, it lives.

Appreciate you taking the time to document your own LG battle in an effort to help others.

Chris
Minneapolis

Anonymous said...

Hey thanks for the tip. Worked like a charm. By the way am in Ottawa Ontario Canada, ordered the part from MC Electronics as per your link and it was shippped from Ohio UPS ground regular mail on a Friday and was at my doorstep on the next Tuesday ! Amazing service. Our local Sears store could only get the part 14 days out and no one else services or stores LG (crap machine makers) locally.

My wife so happy I might even get lucky !

sue said...

Thank you so very much!!!! Same story here in Charlotte, NC. Briefly, "LE" message...called repair company and was quoted just under $500 to fix! Ordered part. Tim, who helps me with projects big and small, looked at your directions and replaced the sensor. 20 minutes. A million thanks, Sue

Paul said...

Thanks a million. I got the part in 3 weekdays and had it installed in 15 minutes (after tearing it apart 3 days earlier.) This was clearly the issue because there were moments when the drum wouldn't turn and others when the drum turned well. Kept getting LE code no matter what I did - reset, leave off and unplugged over night, etc... The drum spins freely manually with no bearing problems at all. Running well now!!

Anonymous said...

Thank you! This turned out to be a relatively simple fix.

Anonymous said...

Thanks for help - the washer is back in action...

You saved me the cost of an over priced service call.

Anonymous said...

The God has spoken. I am ordering that hall sensor right now. Thanks a ton. I will give you are full report when I finish it up!

getAttr said...

Awesome instructions, easy fix. Sears Parts Center screwed up the shipping for my position sensor but they refunded 10$ for the overnight part & had to wait a day. Repair took about 45 min., I was really tugging at that 17mm bolt but after that it was cake. Thanks for all your help!!

BSM said...

Hello,

Excellent pictures!

The 17mm nut on mine wasn't coming loose - it was very hard to stop the rotor from turning. So I used an impact wrench, which did the job nicely.

Also, while removing the stator, instead of wrestling with the two connectors (which again wouldn't come off on mine), I removed the screw holding the grounding (green) wire, and the bracket holding the wiring harness to the cabinet. Now the connectors can stay on and the stator comes off without putting any tension on the wires.

Thanks again!

Steve Gore said...

Thanks for saving our washing machine! Your instructions are by far the most useful on the web. I also owe you a few beers... if you're ever in Sydney.

Anonymous said...

Thanks a ton! Our LG WT-R801 stopped working. On turning it on it gave a sort of clunk-clunk sound and then went straight to LE Error. I got a guy out to have a look. He tested the circuit board and told me it was fine and that it was probably the motor. The call out fee was $88 AUD. The charge to come back and fix it would be $200. I said I'd think about it. I came across your blog and decided it was the Hall sensor not the motor. I ordered it part from https://www.statewideapp.com.au/ ($36 incl shipping). Took a week to arrive. I followed your instructions, took 15 mins. I used an adjustable wrench as it's all I had. Worked fine though be careful not to strip the bolts. The d**n thing actually works! Can't thank you enough!!!!

alex said...

the "crap washer" stop working the begging of DEC O_0 I was worried of the cost to fix this item, but with some search I the best instruction available; I found you blog! THANKS. It was like my Christmas present to have the ordered part at my front door on the eve of DEC 24. thanks for the easy link to order it, the step by step instruction along with the photos, made this thing I happy man with clean cloth during the holiday, lol, Nick got you some beers, I get you Crow Royal on the rocks! =)

Alex
WA

BC said...

Thanks man! What a huge help your instuctions are. Saved me a ton of $$ and it was kinda fun doing it myself. Ordered the sensor from Lowes parts and it arrived the next day. Took about 30 minutes to install and we never even had to make a trip to the laundrymat while this piece of crap was down. Well Done!

BC in Boston

Nicky J - Dallas, TX said...

Wow! We got all scared on getting the dreaded LE error on our 5 year old LG TROMM washer. Tried the unplug thing, but it didn't work.

Next step was the hall sensor. I looked around the web, but couldn't find any explanation of how to replace it until I came across your article. Very well done and written! This gave us the courage to go ahead and order the part. Your step by step explanations were so well written and to the point, that it was actually fun doing the replacement. The spinning of the washer has never sounded so good once the sensor was replaced and things started working again!

Thanks so much for the help on this. We really owe you a lunch - if you are in the Dallas areas. Thanks again!

Nicky

Anonymous said...

Thank, I just repaired my piece of crap (LG WM2227) following your instruction. I had the extended warranty, but it just ran out (Murphy’s Law).

Anonymous said...

Anyone have the problem come back shortly after Sensor installation? Also, is this code literally "LE" or what looks like a double-L E? Help! Ready to shoot my piece of crap.

Johan said...

Thank you for your EXCELLENT document!!!!!!! Our 6-year old washer broke down with the LE error a day before we had to fly out on vacation. We had to wash our clothes by hand. Once back from vacation, I called LG technical support (just)to speak to an "off shore" person that could only give me local private repair company names and no technical support at all-(One may not complain about their technical service because there is no service to complain about!)

I searched the web and got to your document. You were spot on and after ordering the part & shipping ( US$29), I followed your work instructions. It took me 15-minutes from removing the machine to get into the back till closing the back to test the machine--and the machine is running!

Thank you once again!

Johan Keet
Chattanooga

Johan said...

Thank you so much for your EXCELLENT document!

A day be for we flew out on vacation, our 6-year old LG washer gave the LE error and we had to wash our clothes by hand. I did diconnect the power for more than a hour and also spinned the drum by hand and it did not help.

Once back from vacation I called LG's tech support line "just" to speak to an non-American offshore person. Needless to say that they only gave me local private company telephone numbers in my town that will charge me a minimum fee of $250 just to come to my house.
(One may not complain about the LG Tech Support service because there is no service to complain about!!)

I searched the web and found your document and others and after good reseach I ordered the Hall sensor and with shipping it was $29. I followed the instructions in your document and the whole repair process took me 15-minutes. The LG is working again.

THANK YOU SO MUCH! With the photos included, your document is by far the best repair procedure document and it is so easy!!!!

Johan Keet
Chattanooga

Anonymous said...

Great instructions!! thank you for taking the time to create these Lizard43.

The only real problem I ran into was putting the motor rotor back on. I had my wife stabalize from inside while I pushed and viola. The connectors where not easy to pinch off either, be patient.

Thanks again.
Josh
Texas

Anonymous said...

You have written Good steps to follow. This document is very useful with pictures. When we called the repair person they asked $250 but we came to know the part and ordered from sears and replaced it. It is working now. It took 15 mins to replace the hall sensor. Thanks a lot.

Susan said...

We also got the dreaded LE 2 days before leaving for vacation. I called Service Plus (I had the washer covered under our gas company service plan). They first replaced the stator and hall sensor. No go. Then replaced the motor. Still won't spin. Replaced the high magnetic part that the motor fits into (don't remember the the part name). Still just squeals and won't spin. They have no ordered a new computer board and they said if this didn't work, it would cost as much to fix as to replace it with another machine. My WM2487HRM is less than 4 years old and at the time cost almost $2000! I'm not ready to trash it. I LOVE this machine! Anyone else have similar issues that may have other ideas??

Alain said...

Great post,

The 17mm nut is very hard to remove. I used a cordless impact wrench. The rest was a piece of cake.

Maximun 20 minutes.

Thanks you very much. I safe a lot of moneys and time, too.

Alain from Qu├ębec.

Anonymous said...

Holy Crap! You just saved me some serious money. By far you have the best and most clear instructions. And, unlike others, the photos and you asking us to remain patient throughout the process, saved a bunch of money and elevated blood pressure...and perhaps a future heart attack from happening. The rotor was a bit stressful to get on and off because the wash drum loves to move a lot, but once it came off, the rest was a breeze. Thank you. You are a healer! - Ephraim

jensen.jeffc said...

thanks so much fo your post. the link yougave for the part allowed to confirm my washer model used the same part number. Called local parts house they had it in stock $38.00. Your pictures and mostly your tools list were a great help. I walked downstairs with the tools needed and 13 minutes later plugged in the washer and started a load of wash. Thanks!!!

jensen.jeffc said...

great post!! the tool list and pictures were great. I crossed the part number to my model number on the link for the part, Called a local parts house, $38.00. Came home went downstairs with all the correct tools and in 13 minutes had it fixed and plugged in running a load of wash. Thanks again.

Jerry said...

@Susan, did you get it fixed? Sensor did nothing and I was going to change out all the parts you listed as well. If so, did the board make the difference? Pleeease tell me! Getting desperate!

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the elaborate instructions... Much appreciated!
$18 part. $27 overnight shipping. Happy wife!!!
PRICELESS!!!

Go get yourself a beer or four...

Neale van Streepen
Austin, Texas
Www.sportssumes.net

Anonymous said...

This so far has been insanely helpful. Unfortunately I had the whole sensor assembly vs sensor assembly meaning hal assembly issue. So for now I have the wrong part but have ordered the correct part. The whole thing is completely disassembled minus 2 bolts so I dont have to worry about any wires getting broken. Dan.. I love you a little bit with the whole rotate right then snap back left trick. Life saving!

Anonymous said...

I replaced the hall sensor, your pictures were great!!!! Thank you so much. I am also a single mom ~ and so broke. Unfortuntly, this did not solve my problem at all. Now it won't even drain where it did before. Please help, I can not afford a washer new or used. Thanks. LE code on a wm2277hw

Anonymous said...

how do I replace the control board? I did the unplug thing and changed out the Hall sensor... now it beeps more.. AGGGG! HELP

lizard43 said...

Hi Anon -
Unfortunately a Locked Motor Error (LE) or Load Error (LE) message doesn't always mean a bad Hall sensor. Your control board could be bad among a few other things. Do you still have clothes in the washer, have you drained the water? Have you tried the suggestions in this link?

http://lgknowledgebase.com/kb/index.php?View=entry&EntryID=6250

Tracy said...

Thank you, thank you, thank you! You saved me at least $100 repair bill. This is the second time we have replaced this sensor and it was much easier this time. Couldn't have done it without your pics!

Joe I said...

Thank you for the detailed instructions. It was extremely helpful!

Go enjoy your beer.

Anonymous said...

Another happy customer! $23 and 1/2 hour later, and it's fixed. Local appliance repair shop had 6 in stock, which tells me that this goes out often!

tduncan00 said...

thank you, thank you, thank you. Due to some research and your fantastic step by step instructions, I was able to fix my washer without calling an overpriced serviceman. It is running great again. It took me a little longer than the half hour and had to borrow my neighbors strength a couple of times but I was able to get the hall sensor installed.

Teresa
Lafayette, IN

Thomas said...

LE Error...

"Lizard43 you are a life saver!" My 5 y/o LG WM2277HW, crapped out. I went thru all the LG steps...nada, the country of origin with the rep's accent was difficult to understand and when I asked a question, he was reading from a guide and couldn't answer my question. Per LG's advise,I then called for a LG Service Tech. I asked for a verbal price quote. $50/for the call + $100/ 1/2 hour, including drive time...1/2 hour away+ part $40...So, who knows how much by the time it was finished...and they always try to throw an extra part or 2 in! My guess $300+. Ordered the part# ZEN 6501KW2002A from Encompass Parts..$19.39 via + $12 UPS, 2 days later and with your mighty guidance and photos, you were excellent and perfect advice! I rate you, AAAAA+...I'm a Mother of 2 teens in sports with much dirty laundry! The beer is definitely on it's way!

Now clean in Pa.

Anonymous said...

Our Aussie washing machine repair man arrived on time(!) and told us that code could be the hall sensor, but it could also be the power supply unit, or the stator. He ran a few checks (including holding down a couple of keys to run a self diagnostic - I'd really like to know which ones!) and announced it was the PSU. He returned the following day with the correct part (on time again) and repaired it. It has been working fine for a few days now and it cost us Aus $320 all in.

Anonymous said...

Thanks so much for this great post! Everything was exactly as you described and I am getting caught up on our laundry as I write this!

Anonymous said...

Was ready to give up and call a service tech when I found your article. Fantastic instructions....really well done. Thanks for taking the time to post this information. Start to finish in 30 minutes. Thanks again!

Wingnut said...

Good news, bad news. The good news is that your directions were perfect! After reading them, I invited my 4 year old son to "help" me so we could spend some father/son time doing a good deed for Mom. I thought this would be an easy achievement he could get under his belt early in life and gain a little confidence in the DIY lifestyle we live. The washer came apart and went back together just as you described, in less than half an hour, even with my "helper" turning the wrenches.

The bad news is that the hall sensor wasn't/isn't the problem. Once we had it all back together, we placed a towel in the drum and started her up. That piece of crap did the exact same thing as before we changed the sensor. Our unit has not displayed the dreaded error codes everyone else has shared. It hasn't shown any error code period. It thinks it is working properly, but the drum does not always turn. It only turns intermittently. Sometimes it will turn at the beginning of a cycle, but most of the time it will not turn at all. The strange thing is that the motor does turn, but it does not drive the drum. That baffles me, as this is supposed to be a direct drive system (motor directly connected to the drum). I called LG (my biggest mistake since buying this enameled boat anchor) and told the customer "service" person (and I'm being very generous in using the word “service”) what I was experiencing. I asked if I could get a copy of an exploded view drawing which shows how the motor couples to the drum. I was told that such a drawing is not available for consumers, only for my local service technicians and if I would like, I could get a phone number for the closest technician so I could get a quote of what it would cost for them to replace the part which I, with my bachelor's degree in mechanical engineering and 18 years of experience, am perfectly capable of doing myself! No thank you, I replied. How about a simple parts list so I can at least see what parts make up the direct-drive system? No, apparently that, too, is highly classified information, fit only for the service technicians. What I did finally get for my troubles was the phone number for the parts department, which I can call between 8 and 5 CST. But, I was told that they can only help me if I know the part number of the part I need, which I don't know, because I don't have the parts list or exploded view drawing! Who's on first? What's on second? And I don't know is on third! I guess I will give them a try tomorrow (it is now 10 PM), and see if that is where LG is hiding their real customer service people, but I'm not going to hold my breath.

If any happens to have an exploded view or parts list for the LG Tromm WM2277 washer, would you kindly share it with me? That's all I need. Is that too much to ask?

Anonymous said...

I am fist pumping and heavy metal kicking all around my kitchen right now!!!!

I am so grateful for your post.

My piece of crap washer is up and running!!!!!

Anonymous said...

Thank you, thank you, thank you!! Your post saved us time and a ton of money! After experiencing LG's excuse for customer service & the hassle with them to repair a warrantied part I now know I will never buy another LG product again and will closely scrutinize any major applicance not made in the USA.

jennfischer66 said...

Where do I send the beers? After finally ordering the part, my husband had the part in under 20 minutes. The pictures were extremely helpful. This has saved us tons, repair man visits, paying at the laundromat and the lugging all the laundry out and in the house. Thank you!

raj said...

I have LG Frontloader washer and bolt holding the rotor keeps coming loose. Any suggestions

lizard43 said...

@raj Have you tried some locktite on the bolt? You can find it at most hardware or auto part stores. Here's an Amazon link so you can see what I'm talking about.

Amazon Locktite

They make it in many different colours for different applications. I think the blue is the most common. Red is very durable but may require heat to remove.

Jeff said...

Great Post!!! I spent quite some time searching for an easy to understand guide when I finally came across your posting. 15 minutes later, BAM! We're washing clothes again!! Very easy to understand and with the photos along side of it, it was a breeze! Thanks!

Gina from Wisconsin said...

Thank you so much! Great pic and awesome directions. The part is about 19$ online from Sears in the US. I paid double that at a part store in town as I couldn't wait for shipping time. It's saved me so much expense and time off to wait for a repair person. Jason you are awesome and in about 30 minutes clothes were getting clean again! I owe you a beer, some brats too!
Thanks again
Gina
Madison,Wisconsin

modmom said...

i'm so hopeful + excited to try your instructions on my lg tromm WM2277 washer! the UPS just delivered the hall sensor.

i have same frustrating lg customer service experience as you + your other 71 commenters, + thousands of lurkers.

i agree with you lg should send us the part + instructions like yours.
(best buy guy says hall sensor burns out from not using HE soap)

here it goes... wish me luck...

Anonymous said...

I think my wife would bear your children for this post. We have a WM0532HW that was giving LE errors. Your instructions with pictures really put it in layman's terms. I'm slow at making any kind of repairs and I did it in less than an hour. Works like new. THANK YOU!!!

Aardvark said...

My sister and brother-in-law have a WM2075CW and it had been displaying the LE code. Last week I ordered a replacement Hall sensor for $20 including shipping and no sooner had I ordered the part and the washing machine started working again. However, a few days later it again died and refused to budge from the LE code. The part arrived and I spent about 15 minutes installing it (really very easy - changing the oil in my car is harder). I put the machine back together and was able to run two loads of laundry through it. Hopefully this new sensor will last many years.

Aardvark said...

Two other things I failed to mention in my first comment: 1) the center bolt is in quite tight. Another commenter noted he used an impact wrench. Not having one of those, I used a sharp rap from the heal of my hand on the wrench several times to loosen the bolt. Inertia keeps the motor from spinning. After finishing the repair, I applied a few raps to the wrench in the other direction to tighten it up. A rubber mallet would work just as well for those with sensitive hands. 2) when tightening the six bolts that hold the stator in place, it is good practice to hand tighten them and then tighten them down with the wrench in a criss-cross pattern, which is standard practice for automobile lug nuts.

perezr4554 said...

It took way longer to have the trust of my wife that your diagnostics/instructions will work than actually changing the faulty Hall sensor. Thanks for saving me a boatload of $$$!!!!

Steve Gall said...

Thank you! I fixed my washer myself as well.

Jason said...

great write-up on this LG washer issue. I used your guide and did the job myself and saved probably hundreds of dollars. thanks a bunch "buck up chinny". i owe you a beer.

Jason said...

thank you Buck Up Chinny for the excellent write-up. it helped me to replace the sensor myself saving hundreds of dollars. i owe you a beer.

Anonymous said...

one more score! thanks - 4 days total from break to work. ~ 30$

Anonymous said...

Thank you for this, it really helped me.

One word of warning though. There is a significant difference between parts 6501LW2001A and 6501LW2002A. The latter has a higher plastic rim, making it unsuitable for washing machines that need ..1A.

My machine was such a case and it hit me when I just ordered the ..2A part, assuming it would fit.

Double-check the part you need!

Anonymous said...

Thanks Chinny. I also found an excellent video that shows an actual replacement.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeLfq29fuoA

Jerry said...

I had the same problems as everyone else, so it seemed like the diagnosis fit. I figured that the 1/2 hour investment and the cost of the part were worth it even if I was wrong ( the payoff is like 10 to 1 if I have to call the repair guy). I was able to source the part locally in Vancouver BC (it was $40). When I opened my 6 year old machine, it was like I'd already seen it before because your pictures and instructions were SO GOOD! It actually did only take about 1/2 hour and when we were done the Washer started up and ran perfectly. Excellent guide. Thank you so much!!!!

Anonymous said...

I've had my LG washer for 7 years and the LE error just came on. I searched and read your post and excellent pics. I bought the part from sears replacement parts for$18. The total time was 1/2 hour from statrt to finish. Thank you very much. I know I saved a ton of money.

info said...

Thank you so much, for taking the time and writing this blog. Certainly has saved me lot of headaches and money.

Followed the instructions and everything worked like a charm.

Can't thank you enough.

joefrank64k said...

Great write-up! Had the part out and replaced in about 30 minutes! Have a beer on me!

Anonymous said...

Can someone give me some other ideas? I ordered the part in question, successfully replaced it using the phenomenal instructions. Then followed instructions from http://lgknowledgebase.com/kb/index.php?View=entry&EntryID=6250,

Then followed some more instruction to clean passages in here: http://www.fixya.com/support/t260950-lg_tromm_wm2277hw_will_not_spin_both

The stupid washer keeps giving the LE error. The drum WILL NOT SPIN AT ALL! When a cycle starts, it fills the water, but right when it's supposed to start spinning, it stays for a minute or so and give the LE error. Called LG support, they said it'll cost me $400+ to fix a $700 washer. Where is the logic in there? I'd appreciate any help.

Thank you.

Steve

Anonymous said...

You sir are a prince. I followed your instructions and my WM2432-HW fired up perfectly. I would have been waiting for more than a week to get an LG authorized contractor in and paid a minimum one hour service call at $58 plus travel quoted as $88 plus the part quoted as $30 to $40.

In all liklihood, they wouldn't have had the part during their first visit and I would have had to wait another week for them to receive it from LG in Toronto and reschedule another visit to my residence.

Instead, I called my local Sears Parts & Service Depot here in Ottawa, and picked up the Hall Sensor for $20.99 an hour later.

It looks like I'll be back into clean undies this evening. ;-)

Paul
Ottawa, Ontario
Canada

chascooney said...

Hay "Lizard 43" great blog on LG, my front loader went out,i ohm out the motor and everything.I started to use the machine as a bulleye for my "Maw Duce" until i read your post. I think i will try a hall sensor first to see if that do'es the trick to get this baby running again. Thanks Again.

chuck

Anonymous said...

I wasn't sure if this would work for me. Hard to believe everything you read on the Internet.
I went to http://bestbuy.partsearch.com
to order the part for $17.15
I just put it in a few minutes ago. It is nice to be able to do laundry again.
Can't thank you enough!

Anonymous said...

Thankyou so much. I had an "engineer" out to look at my washer and he told me the computer was gone which would cost €175 + labour. I had a feeling there wasnt much wrong with it because everything worked except for the drum spinning. After reading these posts I took a chance on ordering the part and fixed it myself. I feel so pleased with myself. Can someone tell me what HE detergents are. I have looked on all the bottles in the supermarket but none of them are marked as such. Thanks again Colette in Ireland

Anonymous said...

This fix worked great for me! I was so nervous I called my sister to help me...and with the 2 of us we had it up and running in 30 minutes. Only thing different for us was we didn't have to remove the 2 clips on the bottom of the stator. We were able to replace the sensor without removing the 2 cips! THANKS A MILLION-you saved a single Mom a lot of money and heartache!

Anonymous said...

I followed your direction and fixed and works like a charm!

Took me about 30 minutes to fix the problem like you said.

I need to buy you beers!

thanks again!

David said...

Last night was my turn. It took 30 minutes exactly!

The part was $19 and change, with shipping the total was just under $30.
I ordered just the one 6501KW2002A part from MCM but they shipped five!
Do they know something I don't? How long before this sensor fails again I wonder.

I suppose I will keep one extra for next time, if the machine lasts that long, but I'm happy to pass on the other three if you want to cover the shipping.
Let me know,
gdavidcf@gmail.com

Thanks so much for the helpful post!

David
Portland, OR

Ms.R said...

Thank you for this excellent post! The pictures and your descriptions were clear and easy to follow. I got the part on Amazon for 10$! I was thinking I had to replace the machine, and am so happy that this worked! :)
I can't thank you enough! You made my day! :)

Giuseppe said...

Now I feel like the Matag repair man. Oops I mean the LG repair man! Now that I have all this time on my hands lets get that beer. The wife is happy and I'll have clean clothes when I return home.

Kelli from Illinois said...

I got the same dreaded LE code everyone else is getting. I replaced the hall sensor and it worked great for about a day. I even ordered another HS and changed it out again. Still getting the LE code. The drum spins freely when I turn it and it seemed to turn fine when it was running. It wasn't making any noises so I'm not sure where to go from here. Hubby wants me to order the stator assembly but nothing I'm reading is saying that the LE code has anything to do with the SA! I don't want to spend $150 for nothing!!. Any suggestions? Will send 12 pack if you can help get my washer running again...going to the laundromat twice a week in below zero temps is getting ridiculous!!!

Anonymous said...

Last June 2013, I followed the instructions as posted. Saved us from buying a new washer. Eight months later, the dreaded LE code came back 2 weeks ago. Ordered the parts from Amazon & we replaced the sensor, again. This time, code continued to come back after attempting several times. Left the machine unplugged & we will try, again, in the morning. Would like to thank you for taking the time/effort to post your instructions. You saved us from getting a new washer last year but I think it's time to buy a new one.

WinnieWils